The Kazbegi and Truso Gorge Birding Experience

A Birder’s Diary in Georgia

3-7 May 2005

by Tom Coles

Kazbegi and the Truso Gorge

Kazbegi, 42 o 20’ N, 44 o 40’ E, is located 20 Km south of Chertov Most (Devil’s Bridge), at the Georgian/Russian boarder on the Military Highway. The Kazbegi area is designed by the Georgian Center for the Conservation of Wildlife (GCCW) as a birding hot spot; was assigned the status of an Important Bird Area (IBA) by GCCW and Birdlife International; and, is also designated as an important conservation area by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF). The Kazbegi Nature Reserve was established in 1979 and includes Jvari Pass, the Truso George and the southern slopes of the Khokhi Range. A total of 1,347 different plant species grow in the reserve, 30% of them Caucasian endemics. Over 200 bird species can be seen especially during spring and autumn passage in the Kazbegi and Truso Gorge area. For more specific information on the flora and fauna of the Kazbegi area, visit the website http://www.gccw.org. Click on the “Birding in Georgia” picture. Then click on the map at the bottom of the page. When it appears, click on No. 9 and you will access the “Alpine landscapes of Kazbegi.”

In late April I received a phone call from GCCW ornithologist Zura (Zure) Javakhishvili asking me if I would be interested in going to Kazbegi with a GCCW team to try to trap, tag and release Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps f. fulvus? Being “interested” was an understatement, I was ecstatic to have the opportunity! This would be my first time to bird in the Greater Caucasus mountains and there would several alpine species which would be “life birds” for me. A “life bird” being a bird species I had never seen in my life, or in British birding lingo “lifers.”

Although I don’t consider myself a birding “twitchier” which is defined as “an obsessive species lister”, in preparation for the trip I compiled from local and Western Palearctic references a checklist of the bird species and subspecies which could be seen in the Kazbegi and Truso Gorge area, especially during spring and autumn passage. After reviewing the list with GCCW ornithologists and adding 12 species which were observed but were not included on the initial list, the list has been updated accordingly and includes 243 potential species/subspecies. During spring and autumn passage, just about anything can show up anywhere. Apparently birds don’t study the distribution maps in bird books prior to their departure on migration.

2 May: Orientation

I arrived in Tbilisi from my base in Kutaisi on 2 May and visited the GCCW office that evening to see the “GCCW bird boys”. Friend and Director of GCCW, Ramaz Gokhelashvili, gave me a briefing on the upcoming tip. Ramaz’s bubbly enthusiasm concerning the conservation of the flora and fauna of Georgia is infectious. I was looking forward to one of the trips of my life! Not knowing at the time that 91 species/subspecies would be noted in the Kazbegi and Truso Gorge area; that there would be 104 trip species/subspecies observed; and, that I would record 15 “life birds.” A “life bird” being a bird never before seen before in my life, or in British birding lingo, “a lifer”.

3 May: The Adventure Begins

Early the next morning, GCCW mountaineer, guide and naturalist Giorgi (called Rajeba by his friends, since probably a fourth of the male population in Georgia is named Giorgi) Rajebashvili picked me up at my hotel and we were off on our adventure. Weeks before when we had first met, he introduced himself as George. Since he’s half my age, I call him “Young George.” As we motored along the Military Highway in a little Russian Niva, I wasn’t paying much attention to birds as Young George and I discussed our plans. I was particularly interested in seeing Caucasian (black) GrouseTetrao mlokosiewiczi and Caucasian Snowcock Tetraogallus caucasicus. It wasn’t until we passed the Gudauri ski resort and were started to approach the highest point on the Military Highway reaching 2,400m at Jvari Pass (Pass of the Cross) did the birding start to become interesting. (White-winged) Snowfinch Montifringilla nivalis (23) were noted. A beautiful bird in it’s contrasting black and white plumage. This was my first “life bird” of the trip.

We arrived in Kazbegi late in the afternoon. It was gray and drizzly. Young George dropped me off at the Stephan Tsminda Hotel on the main circle of the town. He left to say in a less posh guest house. My room overlooked the Tergi River. On clear days Mt. Kazbek with a 4,900 m summit was the backdrop from my porch. Which by the way, Young George had already seen a view Georgia three times from the summit. Of more interest to me, to the northeast is a cliff face where there are Eurasian Griffon Vulture nest (2-3) as well as roost sites. You can pick out the nest and roost sites by the “whitewash” below each. The surprise of the afternoon was a pair of passing Egyptian Vulture Neophron p. percnopterus (2). Other than being depicted in Egyptian hieroglyphs, I am not clear why these birds are called an “Egyptian Vulture” due to their wide geographical distribution. As the smallest member of the vulture family, it has a wider migratory range then any other vulture (Brown 1976). The Latin name of the Cinereous Vulture (Eurasian Black Vulture) is Aegypius monachus, a species which is rarely seen today in Egypt except for wandering juveniles with the 7 th recent record in Egypt observed by the author on 28 March 1999 (Coles 2003).

Ring Ouzel of the race Turdus torquatus amicorum(2) were noted and counted as “life birds.” There were also three observations of this stunning black bird with its white half-moon across the breast on the 4 th and eight on the 6 th. You really have to be in the alpine mountains to spot this bird in its black tuxedo and white dress collar to appreciate it.

4 May: In Search of the Caucasian (Black) Grouse and Caucasian Snowcock

Young George picked me up at 0600 hr. the next morning for some serious birding. Our target species were Caucasian (Black) Grouse and Caucasian Snowcock. The Caucasian (Black) Grouse is resident in north-eastern Turkey and the Caucasus mountains of south Russia, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan and a small part of northern Iran. Its European breeding population is small with 10,000 to 70,000 individuals. The population is on the decline in Turkey, Armenia and Azerbaijan. The trend of the Georgian population remains unknown and individuals have been radio tagged and are being studied by GCCW ornithologist Zura Javakhishvili. Visit http://www.gccw.org for more details. The species is listed in the Red Data Book of all range countries as rare with declining populations, and is included in international listings: Species of European Concern, category 2 with status Insufficiently Known; as a Restricted-range Species; and in the 2004 IUCN Red List of Animals as Data Deficient. It is also listed as one of the highest priorities for action by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature and Wildlife Protection Agency (IUCN/WPA) Grouse Specialist Group Action Plan. Due to its small range, the difficulty of access to its remote, high mountain habitat, and its relatively small population, it is a poorly studied species (www.gccw.org 2005; Birdlife International 2004). Tongue in cheek, but with affection, the Caucasian (Black) Grouse is locally referred to as “the black mountain chicken.”

The Caucasian Snowcock is endemic to Europe, where it is confined to the Greater Caucasus of Russia, Georgia and Azerbaijan. Its breeding population is relatively small with <67,000 pairs. Its breeding trend and stability between 1970 – 2000 is unknown but thought to be stable. Subsequently the species is evaluated as Secure (Birdlife International 2004).

Heading south, but still in town, we took the first main track to the left, up a steady incline through the village in a westerly direction. As we left the village, we then descended down across a pasture, then started to climb again to the northwest and then west, skirting a stand of evergreens on our left. On the way I saw another birder, hiking through the snow, shouldering his tripod and spotter scope. He was already close to where we were going to park, so we didn’t stop to pick him up. We parked the car far enough from our target viewing sight so the engine nose would not disturb the birds.

We waited for the mystery birder to catch-up. After introducing ourselves, he said, “You wouldn’t be the Tom Coles of Egypt?” I told him that I had just recently moved to Georgia after living seven years in Egypt. “I was in email contact with you last September and you sent me a lot of information about where to bird in Egypt as well as checklists.” I vaguely remembered his name and that he was from Denmark. The world just seems to be getting smaller and smaller.

We started hiking up to the observation site. It was snowing. Normally the Caucasian Snowcock is found at a higher elevation (2,000 – 4,000m) than the Caucasian (Black) Grouse (1,500 – 3,000m), but at this site their ranges overlapped and they are found at the same elevation. As we trudged up the mountain in ankle-deep snow, the Dane said that on the previous day he had observed both species in the field of view of his spotter scope at the same time. That was tantalizing news, but with the visibility being as poor as it was, it sure wasn’t going to be the case today. In fact it was really frustrating! You could hear the birds, Caucasian (Black) Grouse (2), the sound was probably produced by its wings during jumping display rather then by vocalization and Caucasian Snowcock (5) calling, but you couldn’t see them. I had been told by GCCW ornithologists that while the male Caucasian (Black) Grouse are strutting their stuff with tail cocked high at their lek site, where males display their stuff in the spring including jumping in the air from low mounds. By definition a lek is a “Communal display ground where males of a given species congregate to attract and court females ( Bird 1999 ).” For young human males, this would be a popular bar or disco on a Friday night. Meanwhile the Caucasian Snowcock “Will be running back and forth calling their brains out like a bunch of idiots.”, or something along this line according to Zura. After waiting in vain for the snow to let up, Young George and I decided to split and head to another birding site. The Danish birder remained behind.

Were drove 1-2 Km south of Kazbegi where there is a thorn bush covered pasture on the right, with wetlands bordered by the Tergi River. I pulled out my field guide and pointing at the Güldenstädt's (White-winged) RedstartPhoenicurus erythrogaster, asking Young George if he had ever seen the species here before. He recalled seeing only one in this area. This species has predominately an Asian distribution, which just extends into Europe in the Caucasus. Its Europe breeding population is small, around as few as 2,100 breeding pairs. The population trend between 1970 – 1990 is unknown. There was no trend data for Georgia during 1990 – 2000, it was stable in Russia and Azerbaijan, and is probably stable overall. Nevertheless, its population size renders it susceptible to risks affecting small populations, and consequently is provisionally evaluated as Rare (Birdlife International 2004). At the end of and hour and a half we had seen five of the stunning males with their white crown and nape, white wing patches on black, with dark rust-red breast, belly, upper and lower tale covers and tail, with 62 males and females seen on the 5 th and 17 on the 6 th in the same area, thus chalking up another “life bird”. Apparently as spring progresses, the Güldenstädt's (White-winged) Redstart moves up the mountain slopes during the day to forage, coming back to “the pasture” in the evening to roost in the thorn bushes. Eventually they permanently settle on the mountain sloops where they breed. Young George had been stalking the Güldenstädt's (White-winged) Redstart with his camera. But it seemed that every time he got set for a shot, the subject would flit off. I’m not sure if he ever captured one poised on cellulose. It became a standing joke, if you want to flush a Güldenstädt's (White-winged) Redstart just have Young George point his camera at it.

I was later told by GCCW ornithologist and vulture guru Lexo Gavashelishvili that this same pasture was the “Corncrake hot spot” of Georgia. I had heard my first CorncrakeCrex crex at Söfs northern Germany on 31 May 1996. I was first attracted to the rasping ‘crex, crex, crex’ and ‘eeerupt, eeerupt, eeerupt’ call of a male. I saw my first Corncrake on 11 September 1998 at the Zaranik Protected Area and IBA on the Mediterranean coast of the North Sinai in Egypt. This protected area was specifically established to protect migrating Corncrake from the nets of Quail trappers as they migrate to sub-Sahara Africa often as far as their South African wintering grounds (Coles 1998). Although its European breeding population is large (>1,300,000 breeding pairs), but declined substantially between 1970 – 1990, possibly due to modern agricultural technology in western Europe. During 1990 – 2000, the species fluctuated in its Russian stronghold, and was broadly stable overall. Nevertheless, its total population size clearly remains far below the level that preceded the decline. Consequently, this globally Near Threatened species is evaluated as Deplete in Europe(Birdlife International 2004). Corncrake (2 heard, 2 seen) during the trips to “the pasture”. Common SnipeGallinago gallinago (1) and Wood SandpiperTringa glareola (2) were also spotted in the same area. “The pasture” was also a good spot for Caucasian (Mountain) ChiffchaffPhylloscopus (sindianus) lorenzii (14 on the 4 th, 4 on the 5 th, 19 on the 6 th and 7 on the 7 th), another “life bird” for me. There is nothing particularly stunning about this little bird other than this species being unique to the Caucuses. Dress it up in all the verbosity one can conger and it is still a bland little dude. This species breeds in the Caucasus and parts of Turkey. The Europe breeding population is relatively large (>71,000 pairs). The species was stable in Azerbaijan during 1990-2000 but the trends for Armenia, Georgia and Turkey are unknown. The Russian stronghold population is declining (>10%). This previously Secure species is now evaluated as Declining (Birdlife International 2004).

Another “life bird” species was spotted in “the pasture,” the Great Rosefinch Carpodacus rubicilla (20 observed on the 5 th and 1 on the 6 th). Then a “trip first” presented themselves. Plump male (Eurasian) Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula (2) were spotted with their black cap; bright rose-red cheek, throat, breast and belly; white flanks, undertail covers and rump; black tail and wings except for an broad, off-white wing-bar; contrasting with a grey mantel and back. This was the only time this species was seen during the trip.

“The paster” would eventually prove to be a good spot for Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio , and around the wetlands for an occasional Grey Heron Ardea cinerea and Purple Heron Ardea purpurea . The naming of the latter species is another ornithologica l misnomer. There is nothing “purple” about it! I don’t care what the Collins Bird Guide by Lars Svwnsson and Peter J. Grant (1999) says, its just a grey and brown heron. In fact, in The Birds of the Western Palearctic, Consise Edition, Volume 1, Non-Passerines, by D. W. Snow and C. M. Perrins (1998), the color “purple” isn’t even mentioned.

Young George and I headed back to the hotel for breakfast. I spotted a Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus (1) along the way. At the hotel we ran into the Danish birder and his two birding buddies. They reported seeing a male Citrine WagtailMotacilla citreola and a (European) RollerCoracias garrulus in the Kazbegi area the previous day. They also noted that there had been a group from the UK based Sunbird tour group, birding the area earlier in the week. The word is getting out. The Kazbegi area and Truso Gorge are a Greater Caucasus birding hot spot! But just one of many which can be visited in Georgia, so visit www.gccw.org for the specifics.

After breakfast, we picked up a young fellow and former hunter, who was now a member of GCCW. He and his father, also a former hunter, mountaineer and movie stuntman, had place a dead horse in Dariali Gorge for Lexo Gavashelishvili and Giorgi Darchiashvili to use as bait to try and trap Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps f. fulvus. We decided to drive north to Dariali Gorge to checkout the placement of the bait. In the Lonely Planet guide on Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan, the Dariali Gorge it is referred to as “… grim but evocative 11 Km gorge of the Tergi River” where the Military Highway runs along a narrow shelf several hundred meters above the river. Well, “grim” is somewhat of an understatement. There were three spots where huge hunks of the road had collapsed away 100s of meters into the gorge. At spots, boulders were strewn across the road. On one day Tall Giorgi had to stop the vehicle and slam it into reverse to avoid falling rocks. There was one massive bolder on the shoulder of the highway which could have crushed a military tank. There was a marble memorial to over 30 people who had perished after their bus had missed a curve and plummeted into the gorge. But the climax was yet to come. Two days earlier, a rockslide completely wiped out the right-hand lane of the bridge before the tunnel halfway through the gorge. As we approach two huge 16 wheeler Georgian and Russian tractor-trailer transport trucks were backed up together and cargo was being transferred. There was another two dozen Russian trucks on the north side of the bridge queued up to do the same. Now the Niva we were in was a little car, but still we had to slowly inch past the trucks on the bridge. At one point our traveling companion had to get out to hold back one of the truck’s back doors so we could squeak by. Out my front passenger seat window all I could see was open space and was thinking, “Why didn’t I bring a parachute since no bird was worth dying for!” Young George inched the Niva along as if he did this everyday of his life and seemed to be getting a kick out of the whole ordeal! We finally survived the passage, headed through the tunnel and in 5 Km reached the site of the dead horse. It’s placement seemed logical since it was below Eurasian Griffon Vulture nest and roost sites, but apparently the carcass was placed too close to the road and habitation for the vultures to take the bait, so part or all of it would have to be moved the next day.

We decided to drive another 4 Km down highway to the Georgian/Russian boarder just so I could say I had been there. On the way back, Young George pointed out a high mountain pass to the west noting this is where Chechen fighters used to pass into Georgia to escape from Russian troops. I’m not sure “used to pass into Georgia” was quite the correct phase since recently the Russians had spent USD 55 million to deploy two new light mountain rifle brigades along the Russian/Georgia boarder “… aimed at preventing terrorists from traveling from Georgian territory to Russia.” This is a hunk of change to fork-out to prevent something that supposedly doesn’t happen these days.

During our round-trip passing through the Dariali Gorge several raptor species were observed. These included Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis marginatus (1), Common Buzzard Buteo b. menetriesi (4), Steppe Buzzard Buteo b. vulpinus (3), Rough-legged Buzzard Buteo l. lagopus (4), Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca (4), Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina (1), Lammergeier (Bearded Vulture) Gypaetus barbatus aureus (6), Eurasian Griffon Vulture (49), Northern (Hen) HarrierCircus c. cyaneus (1♂), Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus feldeggii (1), Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus brookei (4 of 5 seen during the day), of the area specific brookeirace, and Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni (2♂) which breed in Georgia in the semi-desert, lowland steppe of the southeast corner of the country, but is seen elsewhere during migration (Gálvez et. al. 2005). I suspect that we overlooked some European Honey BuzzardPernis apivorus since 462 were recorded on the following day, the 5 th.

Later in the afternoon we decided to return to the mountain to checkout the Caucasian (Black) Grouse and Caucasian Snowcock site. I was hoping Young George was skilled in CPR (cardio-pulmonary resuscitation) since he might have to use it on me as we trudged up the snow-covered mountain. He noted that the bare incline directly across the gorge in front of us to the west is where the Caucasian (Black) Grouse hangout and is also the males’ lek site. To the northwest was a large rock outcrop were he said that during the previous year a male could be seen displaying from the hotel, with his tail cocked in the air. The two small gorges to the right were Caucasian Snowcock territory. The visibility was better, but we could only hear the wing-flapping or calling of both species. We didn’t spot either species. Young George seemed to be moving into the personal challenge mode, maybe thinking “I’ll help Tom spot these critters no matter what it takes!” I respected his commitment and enthusiasm.

We headed off to another wetland about 5 Km south of Kazbegi, on the left side of the road. After dawning our rubber boots ( Wellingtons of you’re a Brit) we were off. It looked like good snipe and crake territory but none were found. As I stepped out of a small willow thicket a large plover flushed upstream. It had a distinct black and white wing pattern and a large black patch in the center of a white tail. I had seen this pattern before but couldn’t quite put my finger on it. Then the penny dropped – Sociable PloverVanellus (Chettusia) gregaria (1)! And yes, the only other one I had ever seen before was along the Nile near Luxor on Crocodile Island, Egypt, 25 November 1999. There are approximately 25 – 80 pairs which breed primarily in Kazakhstan, but also in Eastern Europe and Southern Russia, but these populations are on the decline. The species is classified as globally Threatened and critically Endanger (Birdlife International 2004). In the most recent publication of the Sandgrouse Vol. 27(1):8, the significance of the conservation and monitoring of the species was highlighted. Through assistance from Birdlife International, a color-ringing project was started during May – June 2004 when 22 adults and 94 nestlings were fitted with colored rings in the breeding areas east of Lake Tengiz near Korgalzhin, Central Kazakhstan. Above the tibio-tarsal joint, each bird was fitted with plastic rings of red, light blue, yellow, black and white. Five juveniles were also fitted with Russian metal rings on the left tarus. (Why all birds were not fitted with the Russian metal rings was not explained.) Sightings with details of color combinations, location (a GPS reading would be ideal), date, and number of individuals observed should be sent to Dr. Will Cresswell, Bute Medical Building, University of St. Andrews, Fife, KY16 9TS UK. Tel. +44 (0) 1334 463010, email will.cresswell@st-andrews.ac.uk.

During the day both (Common) Redstart, the nominate Phoenicurus ochruros (1) and the Caucasian specific (Common) Redstart of the race Phoenicurus p. samamiscicus (4) were seen. The lone family member of the species, Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria (1), called “The Hoopoe of the rock face!” was in its stunning spring plumage of grey and black in contrast with its blood-red wings. The first Rock BuntingEmberiza cia (7) for the trip were recorded. Which I refer to as the “CIA bird”, were observed where else, but in the rocks. There were two other “life bird” species/subspecies observed, Twite of the race Carduelis flavirostris bensonorum (12) and Common (Scarlet) Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus (20). The large and somewhat chunky Alpine Swift Apus melba (20) in its contrasting black and white put on a aerial show as if in a World War I “dog fight” with the Red Barron. The first (Common) House MartinDelichon urbica (3) of the trip were noted.

The day ended with 49 bird species recorded. Not a bad start for a mountaineer/naturalist and an Greater Caucasian alpine novelist.

5 May: Nailing the Caucasian (Black) Grouse and Caucasian Snowcock

Young George and I decided that if we departed earlier we might improve our chances in spotting Caucasian (Black) Grouse and Caucasian Snowcock, so he picked me up at 0530 hr. Although overcast, the visibility was good when we arrived on site. Both species were making wing noise or calling. We scanned and scanned with my spotter scope but still no luck. We did pick up a female East Caucasian tur (mountain goat) who seemed as interested in us as we were in her. She was a “life mammal” for me. Hunters apparently use the animal’s curiosity to draw it into range of a shot.

Then all of a sudden a pair of Caucasian Snowcock flushed and flew behind us. Young George picked up the first Caucasian (Black) Grouse in my scope. I spotted the next one in my bins. Then Caucasian (Black) Grouse and Caucasian Snowcock seemed to be popping up all over the place. At the end of the hour we had seen eight and heard six Caucasian (Black) Grouse as well as seeing five and hearing 10 Caucasian Snowcock. Young George noted this was the highest number of both species he had ever seen at this site. As a thick fog rolled up from the Tergi River valley bellow, we departed quite satisfied with ourselves.

We headed back to “the pasture” we had birded the previous day. It was dripping with Güldenstädt's (White-winged) Redstart (62) within an hour. We also observed Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio (4), our first of the trip. Of the Thrush family Turdus, beside the Ring Ouzel (2) and (Common)BlackbirdTurdus merula (5) which were seen throughout the trip on a near daily basis, “trip firsts” included Song ThrushTurdus philomelos (1) and Mistle ThrushTurdus viscivorus (1) .

The previous evening GCCW ornithologists Lexo Gavashelishvili and “Tall” Giorgi Darchiashvili had arrived. I had first met Tall Giorgi back in January when I joined he and Zura Javakhishvili during their winter raptor survey at Kolkheti National Park near Poti. It had been the two of them who first discovered that the Greater Spotted EagleAquila clanga winters in Georgia a couple of years earlier. During the survey, we spotted Greater Spotted Eagle (4). This would be the first time for me to me Lexo. His reputation proceeded him. He had studied as a Conservation Biologist at the Smithsonian Institute, as well as spending considerable time at Hawk Mountain Sanctuary, PA in the US of A. He and Zura had co-authored the recent GCCW publication Raptors and Owls of Georgia with Rafael Antonio Gálvez. Lexo was now doing is final edit of his next GCCW book Vultures of Georgia. His paper co-authored with M. J. McGrady and Z. Javakhishvili, Planning the conservation of the breeding population of cinereous vultures (Aegypius monachus) in the Republic of Georgia (2005),is an interesting read.

Lexo and Tall Giorgi were up in the Dariali Gorge chopping up the horse so as to be able to relocate the bait. So after breakfast, Young George and I drove up to join them. When we arrived, they were already on the floor of Dariali Gorge next to the river laying leg-hold traps around the bait. When finished, Lexo bounded up the side of the gorge, then offered a welcome as if this was a reunion of long-lost friends. He explained that the padded, circular traps are primarily designed for trapping mammals. He also noted that they don’t always work when set off by a Eurasian Griffon Vulture either. Do to the length of the Griffon’s toes and claws, if fully extended they exceed the diameter of the trap. So the trap can be triggered when stepped on, but will not always catch the vulture. I suggested to Lexo that he have traps made locally with a wider diameter. We drove to the old highway, next to the mouth of the tunnel and started the long waiting game.

At this point Young George would have to depart, returning to Tbilisi. I would miss this sharp-eyed, witty, good natured mountaineer, guide and naturalist and hoped that this was only the first of many adventures with him. We had had a good time together as well as many laughs and become good friends during this outing. At one point he said, “You know Tom, you are different than other birders. You don’t get anxious about seeing this or that species with a need to rush from place to place. You’re a laid-back birder.” My comment, “Well, visiting birders travel here at quite some expense and have only so much time to find the species they are looking for once they’ve arrived. In my case I live here and I can always come back later if I miss something of interest. I don’t consider myself a ‘hardcore twitcher.’ To me birding is just a means to an end. Then ‘end’ being getting out and enjoying nature. Birding takes me to places that I probably would not have visited otherwise. It introduces me to naturalist, conservationists, scientists, birders and other interesting people I wouldn’t met under normal circumstances. Basically, birding is just good for my mental health.” We waved good-bye, knowing we’d see each other when I returned to Tbilisi. (Which I did for about two minutes as he and Zura were blasting out their office door, off to the Lesser Caucuses to try and trap and radio tag for telemetry “Black Mountain Chickens” Caucasian (Black) Grouse. The nice thing about the GCCW team, although they are doing important and serious work, they don’t take themselves too seriously. Teasing one another must be in everyone’s job description. You can tell that the group really enjoys each others’ company.)

Back at the bait, Black KiteMilvus m. migrans (2) showed up first at the site to check it out a potentia l meal. One landed away from the bait but didn’t venture any closer. Then an immature Griffon arrived on the scene and seemed interested, but didn’t go in for the bait either. Next something really interesting happened. Lexo pointed out that in a free ranging herd of horses below us, a mare delivered. In what seems only seconds eight Griffon appeared out of nowhere and were on the ground fighting over the afterbirth. The meal was completely devoured in what seemed less than a minute. This was a good sign since we now know that the Griffon would come to the floor of this part of the gorge to “gorge.”

Then things really started going haywire! A pair of free ranging steers wonder over to checkout the bait. In the process, they set off the traps. So Lexo and Tall Giorgi had to climb all the way down into the gorge again to reset the traps. No sooner did they return from doing this, then a film crew showed up to shoot a documentary on the cliff above were the bait and traps were set. It starting to look like no Eurasian Griffon Vulture would be trapped today.

As we waited, Lexo gave me his vulture 101 course. It was interesting to note that only the (North) American Turkey VultureCathartes aura of the Americas and Caribbean hunts by smell with its acute olfactory sensory system. I had assumed that all vulture used a sense of smell and sight to locate their prey. I thus learned that all other vultures hunt by sight. The mature Griffon first let immature birds approach a meal. Once the dominate birds sense that the scene is safe, they move in and chase off the immature birds. I did know and have witnessed that in Egypt and sub-Sahara Africa, the small Egyptian Vulture is often the first to find a carcass but has to wait for a larger vulture species to arrive so they can \ rip open the carcass with its more powerful bills. Lexo alluded to the fact that the Eurasian GriffonVulture is dominate over the slightly larger Lammergeier. A Griffon will chase a Lammergeier off a desirable nest site, then occupy the site itself. Leslie Brown (1976) wrote in his classic Birds of Prey their biology and ecologythat some Eurasian GriffonVulture wil l migrate (I have seen many migrating through Egypt), but that the Lammergeier pretty much stays to its territorial range. But unless there were duplicate counts of the Lammergeier (14)recorded during the trip, I didn’t see enough bones around to support this population. But maybe there is a seasonal fluctuation in “bone availability” depending on when livestock are slaughtered or other factors? Or maybe the Dariali Gorge forms the edge where the foraging territories of several of these vultures overlap. I will have to pose this questions to Lexo.

The Lammergeier itself is somewhat of a weird bird. It is a very picky eater with bone marrow making up to as much of 85% of its diet, although it wil l munch on a tortoise if found. They use an area of usually hard, flat rocks to drop large bones to shatter from heights of 50 – 80 m but up to 150 m. Reportedly this may be repeated 20 – 50 times if necessary to shatter the bone or the poor tortoise. The sites are know as ossuaries (receptacle of the bones of the dead) , suspected to be used for decades if not centuries. (Brown1979, Ferguson-Lees & Christie 2001). This is how the Lammergeier got its colloquial name ‘bone-breaker’. But the best is yet to come. A famous Greek philosopher was reportedly killed by a Lammergeier when it dropped a large bone or tortoise on his bald head, thinking it was a hard rock! Fact or fiction? Well, if I were bald, I would wear a helmet in Lammergeier territory just to be on the safe side, or your epitaph may read: “He proved that the death of the Greek philosopher was not a myth!” I saw my first Lammergeier up off the mountain of Taba Saka (white flash on a horse’s forehead in the Sesotho language; but actually a white glacier in the mountain’s gorge) many moons ago in Lesotho Southern Africa. A couple of Canadians were up hang-gliding with the Lammergeier.The Lammergeier put on a better show.

The other bazaar vulture experience I witnessed was when a wildlife photographer in the Masi Mara National Park, southern Kenya, painted a remote controlled model airplane like a Lappet-faced VultureAegypius tracheliotus. He fitted it with a wide-angle camera lens, then flew it with the vultures and other raptors to take photographs using a monitor on the ground to line up his shots. Interestingly enough none of the birds seemed to take notice of the weird sounding vulture, although the Lappet-faced Vulture is almost invariably silent.

As an aside Lexo noted that in this area there were around 15-18 breeding pair of Griffon Vulture. He also reported that there are two Lammergeier nest sites that are 15 Km apart.

There are no breeding Cinereous Vulture (Eurasian Black Vulture) Aegypius monachus in the area Kazbegi or the Truso Gorge, although every now and then pairs will be seen which have wondered over from Russia. Although adults of this species are pretty much sedimentary to their home range, juveniles will wonder far and wide (Brown1979) and as I mentioned, I witnessing one such instance in Egypt (Coles 2003). The globally Near-threatenedCinereous Vulture(Eurasian Black Vulture) does breed in the southeastern part of Georgia. There are 20-30 breeding pairs which nest in mature juniper trees, on a north facing rugged slope of >30 o, (rarely nests on a cliff ledge) far from human disturbance (Gavashelishvili et. al. 2005). In contrast, the Eurasian Griffon Vulture and Lammergeier nest in cracks, crevices, caves (including those excavated by monks) and on ledges with overhangs on the face of a cliff. The Egyptian Vulture will also builds its nest in a cave or on the ledge of a cliff, but also on a rock projection or precipice (Zhoradania et. al.1999, Gálvez et. al. 2005).

During periodic stretch breaks, we started noticing large numbers of raptors passing though low and fast at around 1000 hr. standard time. It was overcast with a relative low cloud ceiling. Species spotted included: Black Kite (5), Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter r. nisus (19), Northern Goshawk (1), Common Buzzard (2), Steppe Buzzard, (26), European Honey Buzzard (462), Imperial Eagle (2), Lesser Spotted Eagle (5), Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis orientalis (5), two large but unidentified eagles, Lammergeier (5), Eurasian Griffon Vulture (60), Northern (Hen) Harrier (1♂), six high flying and unidentified female harriers, Peregrine Falcon (2), one large unidentified falcon, Lesser Kestrel (1), and Common KestrelFalco t. tinnunculus (4). After years of doing raptor and large soaring bird counts in Egypt, I really felt that I was back in my element. But if Lexo is the “vulture guru of Georgia”, Tall Giorgi is a budding “raptor guru” as he nailed one species after another in his always modest manner. The other raptor hot-shot Zura Javakhishvili unfortunately wasn’t with us as he was of chasing his “Black Mountain Chickens” in some remote place in the Lesser Caucasus. It is always great to be out with local experts to confirm what you are seeing and to put into proper context what should and should not be expected to be seen due to date, season, habitat, altitude, weather, etc.

Two “life birds” were also picked up, (Red-billed) ChoughPyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax (4) and (Yellow-billed) Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus (8). I didn’t realize that these two gregarious, insectivorous species could be found together. Their aerial antics were delightful to watch. Of course at the time I also didn’t realize that this was only the beginning and that I would see 33 of the first and 223 of the second species the next day on the 6 th.

Tall Giorgi was getting hungry – growing boy – so we headed back to Kazbegi for a bite to eat, leaving Lexo to watch the traps. On our return trip, I was recording (Eurasian) Collard DovesStreptopelia decaocto (5) into my dictaphone when Tall Giorgi noted that he had also seen (Eurasian) Turtle DoveStreptopelia turtur in the area in his usual understated fashion. No sooner had he said this, then (Eurasian) Turtle Dove (7) landed on the road in front of us as if on cue. Tall Giorgi had a grin on his face as if thinking, “See, I told you so!”

Once we linked up with Lexo, he and Tall Giorgi decided we should drive down to checkout the original horse carcass at the first site. Although not an ideal location, they wanted to make sure it was not distracting Griffon away from the new trap site location. They had covered it with scraps of metal so that the Griffon wouldn’t visit it. At the original bait site, Lexo pointed out the nest on a sheer cliff face that he had repelled down three years earlier to radio tag a young Griffon just before it fledged. He noted that signals had been sent out for three years, but the transmitter had now stopped sending signals. Radio-telemetry is neat stuff until it stops working – which eventually it always does! The meanderings of the Griffon and that of a Cinereous Vulture are mapped and can be viewed at www.gccw.org. Lexo regretted that GCCW did not have funds to purchase more transmitters but that it was important to get out and try to trap Eurasian Griffon Vulture for wing tagging just so the momentum of the work wouldn’t be lost.

In the meantime I ask them both if they had seen any (White-throated) Dipper Cinclus c. caucasicus in the area since the local race would be a “life bird” for me. Lexo said they were around but not along the cloudy Tergi River, but along the clear feeder steams which also contain small trout. Obviously the bird needs clear water to see their insect larva prey as they “fly” underwater.

The horse carcass had been placed along the bank of the river where the Military Highway crosses the Tergi River by means of a small bridge. Right before the bridge (and I mean immediately right before the bridge, like five meters) there is a dirt road running off to the left and another even smaller bridge that you cross over a little feeder stream. Lexo thought that this stream would be as good a place as any to find (White-throated) Dipper.

So I decided to remain behind and would hike back later the 5 Km to the bait and trap site. There was a track that ran parallel to the little stream. This area is frequented by trekkers and climbers and there were rustic (“rustic” being politely flattering) accommodations for them along the track. But then living “rustic” is part of the mystique and attraction of the out-of-doors adventurer. And after all, who what’s to hear about the chocolate wrapped candy on your pillow in a five star hotel?

It hadn’t been more than a five minute hike along the stream, than bingo, an adult (White-throated) Dipper! I had seen this bird but not this race before in Scotland and even found a dipper’s nest made of moss in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, USA. They are a fascinating little bird to watch as they do their underwater maneuvers. I slowly followed the bird up steam, keeping a low profile. Within a mater of minutes, it met up with another adult that I assumed was its mate.

I stumbled across another “life bird” Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris (1). At first glace, its sort of a dull little dude. But with closer inspection at close range, it is a quite handsome species. The first Barn SwallowsHirundo rustica (10) of the trip were spotted, but then there aren’t a lot of barns in the mountains of the Greater Caucasus. There are plenty of buildings, appropriate for nest sites – “Building Swallows?”

Light was fading, so it was time to hiked out and up the highway. I wasn’t hitch-hiking, just hiking. About halfway to my destination a nice Georgian family, or maybe Russian family, stopped and picked me up in their white van full stuff for some market. I sat on the bags in the rear of the van. At this early stage of my residence in Georgia, I’m still having problems sorting out the “people sub-species” of the Caucasus. I didn’t see any Griffon at the bait site when we passed it. The family were somewhat taken back when I asked to be dropped off at the entrance to the tunnel in seemingly the middle of nowhere until I pointed out the GCCW vehicle. They wouldn’t take any money for the lift. My experience has always been that the vast majority of the people I have met around the world are good folks! Especially rural people.

Back at the tunnel and the old highway, the sun must have set behind the clouds because it was starting to get dark. Lexo and Tall Giorgi were patently watching the trap site through binoculars and spotter scope between alternating “cat naps”. They weren’t watching for Griffon but for marauding wolves or foxes. At a previous site a pellet rifle had to be used to keep the foxes away from the bait. Tall Giorgi lamented, “I wish I had brought a book to read.” One has a tendency to remember the exotica and adventure of field work and forgets about the sun and heat, wind and dust, cold or wet, rough back-jarring roads, the physical demands from getting from point A to point B and the hours of boredom waiting for something to happen or to show up (then nothing happens and nothing shows up). If you really want to be pushed to the limit of your patience, try wildlife photography! Young George had already been put to this test, Tall Giorgi would be tested the next day.

By nightfall no wolves or foxes had appeared. So we departed. Lexo was a good, safe driver so I was relatively sure that we weren’t going to swallowed up by one of the three gaping holes along the shoulder of the road and vanish under the cover of darkness. The day ended with 57 bird species and sub-species being observed.

6 May: Our Lucky Day

We departed at 0600 hr. to check the bait and traps. It was a crystal clear morning. Mt. Kazbek in the early morning sun, with shining snow and ice in contrast with shaded crevices and dark cliff faces resembled some gigantic roughly cut diamond of the Gods. Upon arrival at Dariali Gorge, we scoped out the bait and traps. Everything seemed to been in order. It didn’t appear that the site had been raided by wolves or foxes overnight and the traps were still set.

So we left the trap site hoping not to discourage any potential takers, planning to return later. Lexo wanted to checkout Griffon and Lammergeier nest sites south of Kazbegi. Tall Giorgi wanted to be dropped at “the pasture” to try and photograph Güldenstädt's (White-winged) Redstart. Me, I was just along for the adventure and anything that might turn up. I have never had a day when out in nature that there hasn’t been an interesting surprise – bird or otherwise.

This turned out to be the red letter day for birding since we covered a wide distance and a variety of habits. As a result the 6 th had the highest daily species/subspecies count of 60. This count could have been higher if we had been trying from numbers: 22 species had seen before but were not seen on the 6 th. Most of these were raptors (12 species). Lexo figured due to the deflected wind off the mountains and warm thermals of the day, they were at such a high altitude they just couldn’t be seen. I figured they must be wearing oxygen masks. But I had seen this phenomena before when doing a raptor count at Suez, Egypt. You would be observing a large “kettle” of raptors, spiraling upward on a thermal and even with the aid of bins and spotter scope, they just seem to vanish into thin air. Even when scanning the wide blue yonder above Dariali Gorge, nothing was picked up. But then they could have been anywhere and possibly out of sight just on the other side of a mountain-ridgeline. On the other hand, 15 new species were recorded for the day and there were 12 species for which record numbers were observed. So for the bush-bashing “twitcher” who is in the species numbers game, during peak passage in spring or autumn one could conceivably chalk-up 80-90 species/subspecies on a good day in the Kazbegi and Truso Gorge area. Under certain circumstances playing the daily species “numbers game” can be fun and you may even get a free beer out of being the winner. But I was with a pair of professional ornithologist who had “vultures on the brain!” Even vultures need someone to love’m since they are an important environmental indicator of what is and isn’t working. And after all, someone or something has to clean up the road kill and other carcasses and this isn’t high on my “wish list”. So after getting past how ugly they may appear and how revolting their job may seem, just remember it’s a dirty little job, but someone/thing has to do it. So who knows, they may contributing to the prevention of disease transmission at the maximum, but at least contribute to minimizing the stench. I’m sure glad I don’t have the olfactory powers of the (North) American Turkey Vulture! But then if you are in Meger Colorado in the Spring, they do have the “Annual Road-Kill and Wild Game Bar-B-Q!”

Now when birding, you do have to have some objective in mind and not just be out bumbling around with the hope of tripping over something interesting. Season, altitude, habitat, foraging habits, food source, etc. are all key factors in targeting a given species. The fun challenge is when trying to match up the variables as if matching the colors in a Rubric Cube and then actually finding what you are looking for. I had only seen one beautifu l male Citrine Wagtail in my life with its stunning lemon-yellow head, breast and belly, which was on 20 December 1995 in Sharm el Sheikh, South Sinai, Egypt. The male (Rufous-tailed) Rock ThrushMonticola saxatilis is another stunner with its grey head, nape, chin and throat; rusty-red breast, belly and tail; dark wings and pure white spotting on the back. The last time I had seen this species was on its passage through Egypt on 15 and 19 April, 1996 at Lake Qarun Protected Area, an IBA near El Fayoum, Egypt. Lexo knew a wetlands along the river where the Citrine Wagtail breed in summer. He also implied that where there are rocks, you could find (Rufous-tailed) Rock Thrush perched on top – thus the name. There were rocks everywhere! As we were driving out of the Dariali Gorge, Lexo spotted a (Rufous-tailed) Rock Thrush disappearing off the shoulder of the road. You can always tell the vehicle of birding enthusiasts. It can be parked anywhere on the road, often with the engine still running, doors wide open, but no one inside the vehicle. After all, when an interesting bird is spotted, who can be bothered with the minor details of road edict? We all vaulted out of the vehicle, Tall Giorgi right into the middle of a big puddle of water. Unfortunately we couldn’t relocate the (Rufous-tailed) Rock Thrush. Fortunately, the vehicle wasn’t demolished by one of the passing 16 wheel Russian tractor-trailers. Well, if you found every wanted species first thing in the morning, what would one have to look forward to during the rest of the day? Half of the fun is in the stalk! Or in other words, a lame excuse for birders who “blow it” or “dip out” in proper British birding jargon. Successful British birders are always the first ones back at the pub by lunchtime. Late coming “dipper outers” end up drinking bottled water! Hum, is this bird worth a Guinness or spring water from some obscure place in Scotland where the Western Capercaillie (Grouse)Tetrao urogallus can be found?

We dropped off Tall Giorgi at “the pasture” wishing him luck on capturing a Güldenstädt's (White-winged) Redstart on film. Then we headed on south. Lexo started pointing out Horned (Shore) Lark Eremophila alpestris (22) along the shoulder of the road, a “trip first”. Then another “trip first”, Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe (18) seemed to be popping up everywhere. Our first stop was a Lammergeier nest site. As Lexo hike up the mountain side with my spotter scope and tripod to check out the site for inhabitants, I explored the valley for alpine species. First Alpine Accentor (5)were seen, followed by the beautiful little Red-fronted Serin (6). A variety of other tweety-birds were spotted, but nothing exceptional that has not already been mentioned for the overall safari.

As Lexo and I joined up back at the vehicle, he reported that the nest site was empty and that his suspicion was that Griffon had chased off the Lammergeier from the site. While in the valley, I did spot a Lammergeier above the ridgeline and did signal to Lexo of the birds presence. Maybe it was the mournful occupant of the lost nest site?

Our next objective was to see if we could find where the Lammergeier had relocated. So off we went, further south. During periodic stops, Lexo would scope-out all the nooks and crannies of the cliff faces as I explored the surrounding country side for other interesting possibilities. At one stop I asked, “Are there any Griffon around? I haven’t seen any!” Without making me feel like a complete idiot, Lexo said, “Well, there is a nest over there with an adult sitting on it. This means at this time of year there is a ‘chick’ in the nest.” I had been subtly informed by a famous German ornithologist and mentor that the term “chick” is used for poultry and young raptors in the nest are “nestlings”. I didn’t say anything to Lexo. A 20 Km walk back to Kazbegi didn’t seem to be worth the point on semantics. In the meantime, we didn’t find where the Lammergeier had relocated their nest site if at all.

The next stop was a broad wetland to check for Citrine Wagtail. This is where the mountain cliffs buttressed up to the highway. In fact, there were snow drifts along the shoulder of the road that had not melted in the shade of the cliffs. Four of eight Ring Ouzel of the day were spotted here. Lexo said this was a good place for (Rufous-tailed) Rock Thrush, but none were spotted. The (Common) House Martin (16)were more numerous than on the 4 th. A Common Cuckoo (1) was calling someplace on the cliff face. As I scanned the wetlands, a Common Buzzard (1) alighted atop a common, wooden telephone pole. A bright yellow piece of plastic was spotted on a green marshy spot along one of the streams that fingered through the wetlands. Then this bright yellow piece of plastic started waging its tail. It was a male Citrine Wagtail (1)! A stunning fellow! Well, mission accomplished on 50% of the targeted species for the day.

At this point Lexo and I decided to head back, pick up Tall Giorgi at “the pasture” and then check the traps in the Dariali Gorge. Although I checked out every bolder and large rock for preaching (Rufous-tailed)Rock Thrush along the way, again none were spotted. I was starting to wonder if their name should be changed to the “Ground” or “Hiding Thrush”. Two Steppe Buzzard (2) were seen, but these were not much of a consolation.

Tall Giorgi had suffered the wildlife photographer’s worst nightmare – equipment failure! This is why I always carry two cameras when I’m in my “photographer mode”. I also carry two pairs of bins (binoculars) and two spotter scopes. Nothing is worse then to be in some remote, fantastic spot and have a problem with your equipment and no back-up. The snap locking on the back of the camera which keeps it closed so that the film isn’t exposed to light had broken. Lexo and I introduced Tall Giorgi to the miracle of Duck Tape. The field “fix all” and “1 st aid kit in a roll”. Lightly applied above a snakebite will retard venom passing through the lymphatic system. Tightly applied on a gash over a rolled up handkerchief will slow down bleeding. With some cardboard or peaces of wood, you can immobilize a fractured limb in seconds. I never travel without Duck Tape.

Lexo was driving as we approached the trap site, so he really couldn’t see the site from his position. When we stopped, I can’t remember exactly what was said, but Tall Giorgi and I yelled out either “Griffon” or “vulture” simultaneously! A Griffon had be trapped! Lexo and Tall Giorgi vaulted out of the vehicle. They grabbed a large rucksack and gear from the rear, then rocked down a rockslide as if on pogo-sticks. I remained behind since following the two of them at their speed down the rockslide was a recipe for me breaking my neck. Plus, I had a bird’s-eye-view of all the action below from my vantage point. The captured bird was flapping around and wasn’t a happy camper. Lexo and Tall Giorgi were on it in less than a minute or so. It was released from the trap, stuck in the rucksack so it couldn’t injure itself and be safely moved, relocated, wing-tagged and released. Stress to the bird seemed minimal from my perspective, but you’ll have to ask the vulture. You are dealing with a big bird with a length of 95 – 110 cm (37 – 42 in) and a wingspan of 230 – 265 cm (90 – 135 in), with a bill that can rip open a horse carcass. So one must take care.

Lexo and Tall Giorgi felt that they had been very lucky with the trapping. But I felt they were being somewhat modest. First, they knew where to find several Griffon. Then they had relocated the bait to a better site, hiking down and up a steep incline to position the bait and traps. They had monitored the bait and had to reset the traps after the marauding steers had set them off. They had waited long into the evening to make sure wolves and foxes didn’t raid the site. Then first thing the next morning the site was checked again. From my inexperienced perspective, these guys did everything possible to trapped their Griffon and they did it successfully in just two days (they may have done it on day one if the snooping steers and photographers hadn’t shown up)! I don’t think “luck” had anything to do with it. It was their professionalism that trapped a Griffon!

Lexo and Tall Giorgi cleared the site of traps and all other paraphernalia. They didn’t want the vultures to become “site shy”. It had been a particularly good spot to use to date since raiding wolves and foxes hadn’t been a problem. During all this a black mare galloped by carrying a young fellow bareback. Bareback horsemanship are famous for their equestrian skills in the Caucasus. He waved before they disappeared into the tunnel. We then headed up to the original carcass to clear it of the metal detractors, making it welcome to all comers: Griffon, Lammergeier, (Common)Ravens Corvus corax, wolves, foxes, local dogs, truck drivers passing along the Military Highway and maybe Chechen fighters. Don’t laugh! I’ve eater horse meat before. It doesn’t taste bad once you get past the terrible texture of the meat and the fact that you are probably not eating the Lone Ranger’s horse Sliver.

As we departed, a lone Griffon was soaring on a thermal above us, as if biding us a farewell. Lexo asked me if I could spot a wing-tag on the bird, but I couldn’t. With the goal of the mission accomplished, a Griffon trapped and tagged, we were off on new adventures. The Truso Gorge was the target site. And as previously mentioned, it is part of the Kazbegi Nature Reserve. At about 25 Km south of Kazbegi there is a “dog-leg” through the village of Almasiani. At the first dirt road to the right in the middle of the village is the entry to Truso Gorge. The gorge is basically a rock strewn river valley through with the Tergi River runs with a mountain range to the north and the south.

Tall Giorgi said this would be a good place to find (Rufous-tailed)Rock Thrush. As we entered the gorge, the first bird of interest spotted was a Red-backed Shrike (1). About 5 Km into the gorge, we came upon large pasture to the left (south), marked off with a 1.5 meter high rock wall. On the mountain slopes to the south were two Caucasian (Black) Grouse lek sites, separated by a small gorge. Compared to the first Caucasian (Black) Grouse spot Young George had taken me up a mountain and through snow, this “grousing for sissies”. You could scope out the leks from the road. But being late in the afternoon, no Caucasian (Black) Grouse wereseen or heard “clapping their wings”. Although the Caucasian Snowcock (8) were making a commotion. As we crossed the mountain side rock wall of the pasture. Tall Giorgi spotted a (Rufous-tailed)Rock Thrush (1)close by. It was a striking adult male. Lexo had been charging his GPS (global positioning satellite) device and just caught up with us. “Okay, which is the more beautiful the (Rufous-tailed)Rock Thrush or the Red-fronted Serin (of which six had just been spotted)? Don’t think about it!”, Lexo said. I voted for the Red-fronted Serin. As if trying to call a revote, a second male (Rufous-tailed)Rock Thrush was spotted by Tall Giorgi while Lexo was taking his GPS readings of the Caucasian (Black) Grouse lek sites. We decided to visit the leks the next morning on our return trip to Tbilisi hoping to observer Caucasian (Black) Grouse displaying. The place was full of (Red-billed) Chough (33) and (Yellow-billed) Alpine Chough (223). Twite (35) were also a trip maximum. Rock Bunting (8) were spotted, hanging out in the rocks as to be expected. Alpine Accentor (5) were also seen, not surprisingly in an alpine meadow of the Truso Gorge. Tall Giorgi spotted some East Caucasian tur, then Lexo picked up some more of the mountain goats. This animal is another one of his research interests. I think the final count was nine. As we departed the gorge, I spotted another “trip first”, a Lesser Gray ShrikeLanius minor (1) perched on a telephone wire. As good friend and naturalist Richard Hoath, who recently authored and illustrated The Mammals of Egypt (2004) and previously Natural Selections, A Year of Egypt’s Wildlife (1992) as well as numerous other books and articles on fauna of Egypt wrote with his usual tongue-in-cheek, “Where did birds perch before there were telephone wires?” Likewise, “If you see a fifth knob on a telephone pole cross-bar, check it out closely. Its probably a Little OwlAthene noctua.” Contrary to the scientific name, this is the most active owl during the day (diurnal). On more than one occasion I have seen them hunting mid-day. In one case picking up migrating, injured (Greater)Short-toed LarksCalandrella brachydactyla which had been struck by passing vehicles on a desert road in Egypt, counting 18 active owls during one day with two birding friends from Texas. During the same day, we observed a pair of Pharos’ Eagle OwlButeo b. accalaphus at the Sakara Steppe Pyramids; and, four Long-eared OwlAsio otus at the 18 th hole of the gulf course at the Zamalek Club on a mid-Nile island in central Cairo. This is the first known breeding site for this species in Egypt. One dead Long-eared Owl I suspect had been mobbed and killed by (Hooded) Carrion CrowsCorvus corone cornix (corone). A lone Barn OwlTyto alba made its ghostly appearance as we celebrated our successful “owling day” in the garden of the Zamalek Marriott Hotel, a former palace.

There are eight owl species in Georgia. All are found at lower elevations except for the Boreal (Tengmalm’s)Owl Aegolius funereus caucasicus which prefers woodlands at an elevation > 1,000 m at sea level (asl). This race of the seven subspecies is unique to the Caucasus and Crimea. It is smaller and darker than its nominate north and eastern European cousin, Aegolius f. funereus (König et. al. 1999). The population size of the race in Georgia is unknown (Gálvez et. al. 2005). The nominate breeding population is large with >110,000 pairs, with key populations in Fennoscandia, Romania and the stronghold of Russia stable during 1990—2000. The species is provisionally evaluated as Secure (BirdLife International 2004).

I have always been “an owl junky” since I picked up an injured Eastern Screech Owl Otus asio when I was an undergraduate student at Indiana University in the 60s. But Lexo and Tall Giorgi assured me that Kazbegi is not owl territory. Oh well …

Like the old Willie Nelson song, “On the Road Again”, we were headed back to Kazbegi, but I don’t recall that Willie included all the pot-holes in the lyrics of his song. But then John Denver didn’t do any better with his “Country Roads”. We were definitely on “country roads”, but “roads” were somewhat of a stretch of the imagination in some spots.

As we bounced and rattled along, Lexo and Tall Giorgi were still in high spirits due to their vulture capture. I was starting to feel too pooped to pop! But Tall Giorgi spotted a (Eurasian) Hoopoe Upupa epops (1), a new trip species. Then something really unusual happened. I spotted a stunning male black and white wheatear. It was not one of the 18 Northern Wheatear we had spotted during the day. I had seen this bird before as a migrant through Egypt in the Sinai, but couldn’t put my finger on it. Lexo and Tall Giorgi were also somewhat perplexed and were debating what it was. As I was reaching for my field guide, Lexo said, “Well, I don’t remember the English name, but the scientific name of this species is pleschanka.” He nailed it! It was a Pied WheatearOenanthe pleschanka (1). Then Lexo added, “But this species is normally found in the dry eastern savannas of Georgia and would not be expected to be seen on the shoulder of the Military Highway in the alpine mountains of Kazbegi.” Although it is noted to breed on barren mountain slopes (Svensson & Grant 1999). Fortunately for me, with the two GCCW ornithologists along and who had also observed the bird, people may have suggested that I have my eyes and head examined. But then again, just about anything can be seen anywhere during migration.

Also observed as “trip firsts” were Crag MartinPtyonoprogne rupestris (1), Tree PipitAnthus trivialis (1), Meadow PipitAnthus pratensis (3), all being “ho-hum” birds. A pretty male (Common) StonechatSaxicola torguata maura (1) with its entire black head and chin, large white patch on the neck-side and orange breast-patch on a white background seemed to be competing with a likewise attractive male WhinchatSaxicola rubetra (1) with its white supercilium (stripe above the eye) and orange-buff breast, were seen along the road, as if competing for the “chat of the day award”. It was a record day for the stunning and cocky Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros (25), spotted, with its half grey and half rusty-red body contrast. Contrary to its name, the nominate species of the (Common) Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus (3) was not seen as frequently as one would expect. The Caucasus race of the (Common) Redstart Phoenicurus p. samamiscicus with its unique white wing-patch was not seen at all on this day. Here I am on the alpine slopes of the Greater Caucasus and Phoenicurus p. samamiscicus doesn’t even have the common courtesy to show up! Bummer! But three were seen the next day on the 7 th as if making up for “loss of face” or “loss of bill”. The somewhat gaudy (Eurasian) Jay of the Caucasian specific race Garrulus glandarius krynicki (1) did make a “trip first” appearance. This is a bird that looks as if it was put together by a committee. If I were it, I would be nocturnal, being ashamed to be seen in daylight. A trip record number of the beautiful black and white (White-winged) Snowfinch (25) was recorded.

With Tall Giorgi’s camera fixed, we stopped by “the pasture” to see if either he or Lexo could capture a good photo of a Güldenstädt's (White-winged) Redstart. But the numbers were down from 62 on the previous day only 17. Lexo figured they were up foraging on the mountain slopes, but would return to roost in “the pasture” thorn thickets around dusk. And like Young George learned, if you want to flush the little critters, all you have to do is point your camera lens at them.

We picked up another “trip first”, Wood SandpiperTringa glareola (2). Corncrake (2) were “craking”. The place was crawling with Water Pipit (43).

As we walked along, Lexo pointed out a Caucasian specific frog species, “life reptile” for me. He noted that there is considerable color variation in the species throughout the country. True to his word, the three we saw were all different colored. I have been told that during the last glacier period, the Grater and Lesser Caucasus mountain chains blocked the glacia l movement, resulting in Georgian becoming an island of considerable evolutionary biodiversity.

There were several Caucasian (Mountain) Chiffchaff (19)about hawking insects over a little pond. Of the 19 birds observed, Lexo and Tall Giorgi were trying to get a camera fix on these bobbing and weaving small warblers as they flitted around after their insect prey. Meanwhile, I was observing other “little brown jobbers (LBJs)” popping out to hawk an insect and then back into the coverage along the edge of the pond. There was nothing spectacular around. There was the second (European) Reed WarblerAcrocephalus scirpaceus (1) and a second Great Reed WarblerAcrocephalus arundinaceus (1) for the trip at this site. Two of four trip Willow WarblerPhylloscopus trochilus (2) were observed. “Trip firsts” included Marsh WarblerAcrocephalus palustris (1), ChiffchaffPhylloscopus collybita (4) , Garden WarblerSylvia borin (1), and Wood WarblerPhylloscopus sibilatrix (1). Then (European) GoldfinchCarduelis carduelis (19), showed up seemingly to show off their red, black and white heads and yellow and black wings as if to emphasize that there were more than just LBJs around the pond. Still the second pond on your left, as you enter the gate, can be good for warblers during spring passage, if warblers are your thing. But I would suggest you bring along Kevin Baker’s Warblers of Europe, Asia and North Africa (1997) as a reference.

Back at the hotel, I was relaxing on the porch, watching the rays of the setting sun behind me to the west reflect off Mt. Kazbek to the east, as Eurasian Griffon Vulture glided to their roost and nest sites on the cliff face to the north. I suspect them to splatter the sites with more “white-wash” if this is what vultures due to telegraph their territories. In the midst of all this, a large, slow flying heavy built, bird with ultramarine-blue leading wing-edge and rump, but generally a greenish-tinged pale blue bird with a brown back, lumbered up along my side of the Tergi River. It was an adult (European) RollerCoracias garrulus (1). A “trip first” for me, but this species had been seen earlier in the week by the Danish birders and earlier in the day by Tall Giorgi. If the same bird (which I doubt), it was becoming quite a celebrity!

With a trapped Eurasian Griffon Vulture,60 bird species/subspecies observed during the day, and I don’t know how many kilometers traveled over pot-holed roads, I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. Probably with a smile on my face.

7 May: Strutting Their Stuff

Again we were up and out early. It was a “picture postcard” prefect day. We made a brief stop at “the pasture” and picked up some Caucasian (Mountain) Chiffchaff (7), then headed straight to the Truso Gorge. We were not disappointed. There were already large adult male Caucasian (Black) Grouse (9)strutting their stuff, with tails cocked high. With good views, the inflated, bright red eye-brow patches (supercilium) could be seen in some of the displaying males. No doubt there were females around, but we couldn’t spot them due to their cryptic camouflage. A tenth male was heard from the mountain ridge across the gorge on the north side. The species is relatively silent. The far-caring whistling sound is produced by its wings during displays of flutter-jumping at the lek rather then by vocalization (Beaman & Madge 1998, Snow & Perrins 1998). While in the Truso Gorge we also observed Alpine Accentor (1), Rock Bunting (1), Twite (27), (Red-billed) Cough (4) and (Yellow-billed) Alpine Cough (2). I suspect the numbers were down for most species only because we were there so early in the morning.

Well, like all good adventures, this one eventually was coming to an end. Lexo, Tall Giorgi and I started our trek back to Tbilisi. Geographically we were still in the Kazbegi Nature Reserve until we cleared Jvari Pass. So there was the possibility for another area species or two. Along the road Lexo picked up a “trip first” for me an Ortolan BuntingEmberiza hortulana (1). It was a handsome male with its grey head with a yellowish-white eye-ring, a light yellow malar stripe (plumage marking on the cheek of the bird), with its distinct orange-brown flanks and belly. Also along the road, but before leaving the reserve, we noted a Common Cuckoo (1),only the third one for the trip, so I wouldn’t call them “common” for this time of year. Lexo said they were more common in the summer months. Also seen were Horned (Shore) Lark (11), (Common) House Martin (91) building their nests in avalanche tunnels and not houses (“Avalanche Tunnel Martin?”), Water Pipit (7), which were not always around water, White Wagtail (8), Northern Wheatear (4), Black Redstart (2), (Common) Redstart of the nominate species Phoenicurus phoenicurus (3), and (Common) Redstart of the local race Phoenicurus p. samamiscicus (3). A lone (Common) Chaffinch was a surprise since c.2-300 had been sighted on the 3 rd. Obviously the main passage for this species was over or was happening someplace else. The beautiful (White-winged) Snowfinch (7) were again seen before we departed Kazbegi Nature Reserve at Jvari Pass and was a nice send-off. At the pass I took a photograph of Lexo and Tall Giorgi. The snow on both shoulders of the road was higher than the roof of our 4WD Toyota.

As we departed the alpine area and started moving down through broad-leafed forests, birds you would expect to see in this type of habitat were observed to include, Black Kite (6), Common Buzzard (5), Steppe Buzzard (2), European Honey Buzzard (14), Common Kestrel (1), (Common) Swift (86), (Eurasian) Collared Dove (1), Barn Swallow (8), (European) Goldfinch (3)and (Eurasian) Jay (1).

Species seen for the first time on the trip included Greater Spotted WoodpeckerDendrocopos major (2), (European) GreenfinchCarduelis chloris (saw 1 and heard 1) when we stopped to buy some snacks. Great White EgretEgretta alba (4) and White-winged TernChlidonias leucopterus (c.50) were spotted where the Aragvi River enters the Zhinvali Reservoir to the north of the beautiful 16 th century Ananuri fortress. A few kilometers down the road, Tall Giorgi picked up European Bee-eaterMerops apiaster (3) over the Zhinvali Reservoir. As usual, the bee-eaters were heard calling first before being seen in its undulating flight. With exotically rich and gaudy plumage colors, they look like they were designed by some mad artist. The adult’s plumage consists of a bright yellow throat, black georgette (throat stripe), yellow-white shoulder patches, red-brown crown/back and inner wing-panel finished off with an aqua-marine breast and belly.

Members of the bee-eater family will eat just about any flying insect, so “Flying Insect-eater” would be an more appropriate name. But what is fascinating to watch, is when a bee-eater first catches a bee. Then perched, beats the “living daylights” out of a captured bee on the peach-branch until the poisonous barbed stinger is removed. Only then is the bee swallowed. Just another amazing example of avian evolution. I once watched the whole process of bee capture, thrashings and consumption for an hour or more over beehives on Crocodile Island, near Luxor, Egypt. More than a few dozen bees became history. The bee-eaters are so efficient at capturing their prey that Israeli bee-keepers actually shoot European Bee-eaters! But in the food-chain, the Blue-cheeked Bee-eaterMerops persicus is the favorite snack of the Sooty FalconFalco concolor. So the Sooty is a bee’s best friend! Although no Sooty Falcon will be seen in Georgia, so bees here fly at their own risk.

Tall Giorgi knew of a “flycatcher hotspot” along the road that he wanted to stop and checkout. Although he thought it might be too late in the season for the migrant species to be around. But we were in luck and “trip firsts” included: Spotted FlycatcherMuscicapa striata (1), Semi-collared FlycatcherFicedula semitorquata (1) and Red-breasted FlycatcherFicedula parva (3). Also, Grey WagtailMotacilla cinerea (6), Long-tailed TitAegithalos caudatus (4), Great TitParus major (1) and (Eurasian) Tree SparrowPasser montanus (1). As we moved through a more agricultural, as expected (Common) MagpiePica pica (3) were seen.

Well, we were back in Tbilisi. Home of the exotic feral Rock DoveColumba livia , House Sparrow Passer domesticus and Carrion (Hooded) Crow. Although the Rock SparrowPetronia petronia can be seen near the GCCW office and a variety of raptors have been recorded over the city during spring and autumn passage. For the “gull junky”, hang out along the banks of the Mtkvari River that runs through the center of town with P. J. Grant’s Gulls: A Guide to Identification (1986) and you should have a few challenges.

Due to the pending arrival of US President, George W. Bush, security was tight. Roads were blocked with detours all over the place. Even the police couldn’t tell us how to get around the detours to my hotel. What would have been a 15 min. trip turned out to take more than an hour. Maneuvering around the roadblocks in Tbilisi was starting to resemble making the passing along the Military Highway through the Dariali Gorge at Kazbegi.

Tall Giorgi, Lexo and I bade our farewells with hopes of having future adventures together. A fantastic time was had by all on our safari to the Kazbegi area and the Truso Gorge! An opportunity that should not be missed by any serious birder and which can be facilitated through the GCCW team.

Acknowledgements

This trip would not have been possible without the support of Ramaz Gokhelashvili, Director of GCCW. His enthusiasm and facilitation of this exposure to the work of GCCW was a life experience that will never be forgotten. I appreciate the fact that Zura (Zure) Javakhishvili, Habitat Program Manager, IBA Coordinator, GCCW, did not forget a promise made months earlier to invite me to join a GCCW team doing field work. It was sharp-eyed, witty, persistent, good natured mountaineer, guide and naturalist Giorgi (Young George, Rajeba) Rajebashvili, GCCW, initial introduction to Kazbegi that will always be remembered. We had a good time together! Lexo Gavashelishvili, Conservation Biologist, GCCW, insights into vulture behavior and knowledge of the area avian variety was invaluable, in addition of being just a very good guy. Another good guy, sharp-eyed, keen-eared and low-keyed Giorgi (Tall Giorgi) Darchiashvili, Bird Conservation Officer, GCCW, helped me spot many species which would have been overlooked otherwise, without making me feel like a complete idiot! I would like to thank Nika (Nick) Tsiklauri, IBA Coordinator and Webpage Manager (computer “hot-shot”) of GCCW, for introducing me to the GCCW team.

As the famous author John Steinbeck wrote, “If one tried to describe Georgia using one, single word, the right word would definitely be ‘hospitality’.” The GCCW group has been the epitome of “hospitality” to me. The GCCW is doing amazing and very important conservation work in Georgia! The support of GCCW should be high on the priority list of anyone who cares about wildlife conservation. Their work in this small, but biologically rich and diverse country is barometer for measuring the health of our planet earth! It is critical that the work of GCCW be supported in the years to come! I hope that this article will encourage the on-going support of the efforts of the GCCW team.

References

Balmer, D. (2005) Sociable Plovers. Sandgrouse Vol. 27(1):8.

Beaman M. and Madge, S. (1998) The Handbook of Bird Identification for Europe and the Western Palearctic. Princeton University Press. Princeton. USA.

Bird, D. M. (1999) The Bird Almanac: The Ultimate Guide to Essential Facts and Figures of the World of Birds. Firefly Books. Buffalo. USA.

BirdLife International (2004) Birds in Europe: population estimates, trends and conservation status. (Birdlife Conservation Series, No. 12). Cambridge, UK.

Brown L. (1979) Birds of Prey their biology and ecology. The Hamlyn Publishing Group Limited. London. UK.

Coles, T. (1999) The Day of the Owls. A Birder’s Diary in Egypt. www.birdingegypt.com. Cairo. EG.

Coles, T. (1998) Corn Flakes Aren’t Just for Breakfast. Zaranik. North Sinai, Egypt 10 – 12 September, 1998. A Birder’s Diary in Egypt. www.birdingegypt.com. Cairo. EG.

Coles, T. (2003) Black (Cinereous) Vulture Aegypius monachus seen in Egypt. Vulture News. The Journal of the Vulture Study Group. No. 49 September 2003. Kimberly, SA.

Darchiashvili, G., Kopaliani, N., Shavgulidze, I., Babuadze, L. and Gorgadze, G. (2004) Birds of the Eastern Caucasus.Noah’s Ark Center for the Recovery of Endangered Species (NACRES), Georgian Protected Areas Development Project (GEF/The World Bank). Tbilisi, GE.

Ferguson-Lees, J. and Christie D.A. (2001) Raptors of the World. Houghton Millington Company. New York. USA.

Gálvez, R. A., Gavashelishvili, L., and Javakhishvili, Z. (2005) Raptors and Owls of Georgia. Georgian Center for the Conservation of Wildlife and Buneba Print Publishing. Tbilisi, GE.

Gavashelishvili, A., McGrady, M. J. and Javakhishvili, Z. (2005) Planning the Conservation of the breeding population of cinereous vultures (Aegypius monachus) in the Republic of Georgia. In Press. Oryx.

König, K., Weick, F., and Becking, J.-H. (1999) Owls: Guide to the Owls of the World. Yale University Press. Yale. USA.

Snow, D. W. and Perrins, C. M. (1998) The Birds of the Western Palearctic. Concise Edition, Volume 1. Non-Passerines. Oxford University Press. Oxford. UK.

Snow, D. W. and Perrins, C. M. (1998) The Birds of the Western Palearctic. Concise Edition, Volume 2. Passerines. Oxford University Press. Oxford. UK.

Svensson, L. and Grant P. J. (1999) Collins Bird Guide. HarperCollins Publishers Ltd. London. UK.

Zhoradania, R., Boema, R. & Kuznetsov, A. (1999) The Birds of Georgia, A Field Guide. World Wildlife Fund for Nature (WWF) and Georgian Society in Support of Culture and Nature (CUNA). Tbilisi, GE.

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